Are you looking for Dog Trainers in Liverpool? Dogs can be the most wonderful friends in the world, but if their behavior is out of control, it can be stressful or even dangerous - especially if they have a problem with biting.
Do you think that your dog needs one-on-one training? Is getting your dog to class each week becoming too much of a challenge with your busy life? Perhaps you have a particular behavioural problem with your puppy which needs intensive training? It's possible that you need a dog trainer.
For one to one dog trainers in Liverpool, look to Dog Harmony today.
During our one-on-one training, Dog Harmony can concentrate solely on your canine buddy. No matter what they’re struggling with, they deserve attention and patience to help combat their issues. Whether they’re struggling to behave appropriately when going for walkies, or are struggling with toilet troubles, our methods will get the best out of your dog.
Dog Harmony offer hands on dog training in Liverpool to prepare your dog for the real world. In just four focused and intense dog training sessions starting in your home (approximately 7 – 8 hours) you will have a much calmer, relaxed and content dog. In these sessions, you and your dog will learn basic obedience, sit, down, stand, recall, pulling on the lead and other basic commands. We will also cover basic house manners such as jumping up, excessive barking and other non-appropriate behaviours. Your dog will learn how to socialise with other dogs, calming signals to avoid confrontational situations and also avoid your dog becoming “pack bait”. You have a dog because it fulfils your needs but what do you do to fulfil your dog’s needs! These dog training sessions are designed for both you and your dog to have a much more fulfilling relationship, free from potential behaviour issues.
At Dog Harmony, we’re passionate about using positive reinforcement methods when training your dog. We love nothing more than improving the bond between dogs and owners, and we always make sure our sessions are fun and informative.
Speak to our trainer today about booking a session in Liverpool on 07776 761289.
So, you are thinking about taking on a rescue dog!
As a dog behaviourist experienced in dog training, I can help you to make your decision and provide support for you in caring for and living with your new pet.
Why adopt a rescue dog?
Where should I get a rescue dog from?
Local Rescue Centre Organisations
There are many rescue centres around in the North West. The kennel club produces a rather thick brochure listing all the Kennel Club recognised organisations. In the North west there a few good rescue centres, a quick look on Google will
give you all their contact details. You should be aware that there are some so-called dog rescue organisations that are no more than a dog selling outlet that imports dogs for sale so go to a reputable local one which includes Freshfields animal rescue just outside Formby, Carly Lane, Liverpool, Dogs Trust, and The RSPCA.
Private sale
You will often find dogs advertised on the internet and Gumtree or by word of mouth (accidental mating). As a dog behaviourist I tend to find that dogs advertised on the Net or Gumtree for money, usually £100’s cheaper, are ones which I see often see as behaviour consultations and though you got the dog cheaper, it almost always ends up costing you a lot more in behaviour training and dog training. This is not to say that all advertised dogs are a problem, but I would strongly urge caution!
When you go to see and see a dog for sale or from a rescue centre see if you can see the dog interact with another dog not already in the household in which he lives. Take him for a walk, does he pull on the lead, will the pulling get worse, are you strong enough to accept this pulling. A dog pulling on a lead is the most common dog behaviour issue I come across, indeed, to the extent that the owner no longer wants to walk the dog as it has become such a chore. Does he react to other dogs when on a lead? Does he bark at other dogs on a lead? All this may become potential problems that need correctly through dog training.
Make sure you see him being fed and that he is happy to have people around whilst being fed; if he is guarding his food this will become a problem in your home as he becomes more settled. See how the dog behaves around toys that are on the floor, again will he growl if you try to pick one up? If there are no toys, why not? Does the dog look fit and well? Ask to see vaccination certificates, and pedigree papers if the dog is a pedigree!
Time to make your decision!
This is something that should not be taken lightly. The above suggestions are by no means an exhaustive list. But, sadly, many dogs which are adopted end up back in the system. Why? The following are some causes and explanations.
Still, want to adopt a rescue dog? I do hope so!
It is really important that you have thought this through and understand what to expect. The last thing a rescue dog needs is to be sent back to the rescue centre. Deciding to return a dog to rescue is emotionally draining for the new owner and is very difficult for the dog. Having made the decision to get a rescue dog, here is some more information which might help! Good luck, however, if you have done your homework you will not need luck, and do give me a call if you have any questions!
Do's - Remember a dog has emotions. They learn by association. It is a scientific fact that canines have at least primary emotions and there is much research into whether or not dogs have secondary emotions such as jealousy.
Do not stress, whatever your dog does! If you stress this will travel down the lead and make your dog stressed. Read about “calming signals” so you are able to understand your dog even more. If you are stressed your dog will be!
Clicker Train your dog using treats. Look for a dog trainer who uses positive and kind techniques in dog behaviours, and importantly, shows you how to fade or even remove any existing bad dog behaviours. There are an increasing number of good trainers in this area but if you have a rescue dog you will need a trainer who understands dog behaviour. Do check the dog training class before you join to make sure you are happy with the techniques used and that the class is small and under control or will private one to one lessons be more suitable.
Some dogs have not suited to class-based dog training until they have been rehabilitated.
Don't - Don't take an aggressive dog to dog training sessions unless you have informed the trainer first. Leave your dog in the car until the trainer is ready. The dog trainer should have discussed a plan with you prior to training. A lot of rescue dogs will be nervous so taking them to a class with other dogs will cause more stress to you and your dog, even to the others in the class. You will need to rehabilitate him before joining a class. A dog behaviourist should be able to help you.
Don't punish your rescue dog - no matter what the provocation.
Do not over compensate for your rescue dog's sad past by giving too much un-earned affection or spending too much time with them as this generally creates additional problems in the long run. Rescue dogs tend to try to bond very quickly with their new owner and get more worried about being left alone. If you work and need to leave your rescue dog for a period start off by leaving them for a short while in another room with a well stuffed “frozen” kong. I fill a kong with treats and then put peanut butter along the top, wipe it in cling film and then freeze it. It lasts longer. Gradually build on the amount of time you leave them.
If you have read this you may feel daunted! I really don't want to put you off, but it is important to realise that this is a big step to take. I hope this helps you to make the right decision and adopt a rescue dog in the full knowledge of what you may expect.
If you would like advice about taking on a rescue dog, or dog training and dog behaviourist sessions for rescue dogs, please contact me.
You probably don't like any dog training method that involves the word “negative.”
“I don’t want that around my precious doggo.”
And, I agree with you…
Most dog owners would rather live with a "bad" dog than have a dog trainer apply ‘negative’ behavioural training methods to correct said bad behaviour forever.
This has led almost all dog trainers to throw away decades of proven dog training methods in favour of ‘positive’ and modern systems – even if they barely get the desired result.
So, it begs the question…
Are dog owners and our positive-only dog behaviourists and trainers killing our dogs with kindness?
In this article, we’re going to explore the various types of training methods. What negative and positive really mean. And how dog owners and trainers can apply it every day to effect lasting changes in their dogs.
Let’s go…
The short answer is “No!”, but you need to understand why.
The science behind most dog behavioural work and obedience training is Operant conditioning. In operant conditioning, there are 4 consequences for each behaviour.
1. Something Good can start or be presented, so behaviour increases = Positive Reinforcement.
2. Something Good can end or be taken away, so behaviour decreases = Negative Punishment.
3. Something Bad can start or be presented, so behaviour decreases = Positive Punishment.
4. Something Bad can end or be taken away, so behaviour increases = Negative Reinforcement.
#1 relates to pleasure: providing treats, playing a game, or a lovely run in the park.
#2 is taking something away that the dogs like a favourite toy or a treat.
#3 is direct punishment, hitting or using electronic collars or choke/check chains.
#4 is removing something that may be causing pain or distress, stop hitting or stop pressing the button on a shock collar.
You can clearly see why #3 and #4 are negative training methods, not because they don’t get the behaviour fixed… but because they tend to make a dog fearful and withdrawn.
However, denying the effectiveness of #2 leaves dog owners with only #1, which is essentially killing their dogs with kindness – and it doesn’t work!
Except in certain circumstances, most good dog behaviourists and trainers tend only to use positive reinforcement and negative punishment.
Personally, I think bad trainers and behaviourists would either use just one (usually #1) or all four when training a dog.
I know it will sound strange to hear me say positive reinforcement can be bad for a dog.
However, many trainers and some so-called modern behaviourists, think they can effect lasting change in a dog using just positive reinforcement.
To them, this is the only ethical way to change bad behaviour in a dog.
If they truly understood the science of behavioural and training methods, they would not take Skinner's work and throw away three-quarters of it.
According to the behaviourist who created the behavioural quadrant, Skinner, the term ‘positive’ means that something is being presented soon after an action.
As a result of that presentation, the action increases in frequency or intensity. The ‘positive’ in positive reinforcement has nothing to do with good or bad, or with what is beneficial or detrimental.
It is not connected to what anyone does or does not want.
By definition, positive reinforcement could include what we would label as ‘harsh punishment.’
Here’s what I mean…
If, for instance, a dog snarled and threatened to attack you, and you responded by kicking and abusing the dog… then that abuse could serve as a positive reinforcement.
The dog’s aggression towards the owner intensifies because of the abuse. Repeated over time, the level of aggression and the frequency becomes the dog’s natural response to abuse.
Your abuse would therefore function as positive reinforcement of the aggression. Same way praising and treating a dog can reinforce bad behaviour when it is done at the wrong time. Just as surely as punishing him in the wrong way.
Do you now see why you need an experienced dog trainer with a deep understanding of dog training science?
Understanding operant conditioning and behaviours is far more complex than the simplistic belief that punishment is bad and reinforcement is good.
As an experienced dog trainer, I wish it was that easy… like the 80s cowboy films where the hero wears a white hat and the antagonist a black one.
I challenge any dog trainer or behaviourist to demonstrate the effectiveness of their method using positive reinforcement only. It is impossible to train any animal, be it dogs, humans, horses, or monkeys using positive reinforcement only.
Either these people are deluded or lying to dog owners.
If they weren’t they would realise that negative punishment can be as simple as closing your hand on a treat so a dog doesn’t get it. Walking a dog on a lead is "negative punishment." Turning away from a dog that is jumping up is NEGATIVE.
Many of these so-called “Positive-only trainers” are actually teaching in our colleges and universities and are responsible for marking exam papers of students who will graduate and become our future dog trainers and behaviourists.
They’re often marking papers based on their own biased, unsupported opinions and unproven theories.
I have first-hand experience with this!
These people quote Skinner’s work and talk about operant conditioning… yet consciously ignore the fact that Skinner’s operant conditioning has four interdependent elements.
They simply choose what feels right to them vs what’s proven to work.
I find them not only sleazy but also complicit in the increasing number of dogs that are regularly euthanized or put into rescue.
What positive-only trainers lack is the understanding that all animals, including humans, need to be aware of actions and consequences.
In their hurry to show how kind and caring they are, they ignore the main tenets and principles laid out in ethical conditioning.
No dog trainer should claim they use only positive and friendly methods when they also apply negative punishment under operant conditioning – using a lead is negative punishment.
Any dog trainer who cherry-picks Skinner's work and claims to take the moral high ground yet uses negative punishment (not offering treats for unwanted behaviour) is sleazy.
A dog can be running around enjoying itself – maybe a little too much. As soon as we attach a lead to their collar or harness, then we’ve used negative punishment because we have taken away something the dog enjoyed – freedom to play.
Because someone hears the word ‘negative punishment’ and feels it means animal cruelty?
The answer is “No” because it puts the dog and people around it at risk.
There are dog trainers that will advise you to turn away and fold your arms when the dog nips you. More often than not, this results in the poor dogs becoming more frustrated and anxious, therefore, more dangerous and aggressive to humans.
If the initial frustration and attention-seeking behaviours from the dog do not work, it could result in the escalation of aggression or unacceptable behaviour.
I am of the opinion that most of these behaviourists and trainers never even touch the dogs they are treating. They sit and observe for a few hours. They scribble fifty-pages report on what you should do – even though they are totally incapable of doing it themselves.
It’s like learning to drive by reading a book.
It’s my belief that over 40% of the dogs I’ve worked with are dogs that other trainers and behaviourists have failed to make any appreciable difference – probably those who claim to be positive-only or force-free trainers.
These are likely the same trainers that instead of teaching a dog to heel, put on it what they consider are kind and gentle devices such as a harness or, worse, a Halti.
I have seen dogs desperately struggling to get these infernal devices off their faces. And many end up having their hair rubbed down to the skin, blisters and abrasions and infections where they have ridden up and rubbed against the eyes.
Are these supposed to be the kind alternatives?
All harnesses, Halti’s and head collars work on impeding the dog to make it not pull. Surely that can only happen through pain and discomfort. They also do not teach the dog to heel they only restrict it.
If the "training aid" does not actually train the dog – i.e. in other words, when you take it off the dog immediately pulls again – then it is definitely not a training aid and must work using pain and discomfort.
As an ethical dog trainer in Thailand, I teach methods which actually train the dog to walk to heel, rather than just impeding and distressing it.
In many recent pressers and media articles, there have been calls to change the way schools, organisations, and families instil ethics and discipline in our children.
The experts have come out to say that we’ve failed recent generations by not teaching and extolling the virtues of respect and instilling an ethical and moral compass.
It’s unfortunate that some people in positions of education and training believe neither children nor pets should be controlled by anything other than positives – and good vibes.
No negatives, discipline, or control whatsoever. Ignore the bad… reward the good.
Unfortunately, we’ll end up creating a society that fails to instil morals, decency, and self-control. We owe our children and our pets an educational and training programme whereby they understand boundaries and guidelines, right from wrong. Respect, rather than contempt.
None of these requires cruelty pain or distress.
In a society where we cannot even say “No!” to children or pets, it won’t be long before anarchy reigns. We are now euthanizing far more of our once beloved pets for behavioural and training problems than ever before.
Just think for a moment why that may be happening.
I read a report some weeks ago that said aberrant behaviour in our dogs is the main reason they are euthanized. I would place all the blame firmly at the doors of the positive-only and so-called force-free trainers.
All animals, especially mammals, need a track to run on… and that track is "consistency."
In the wild, actions have consequences. The correct behaviours and boundaries are taught by pack members including the mother, older siblings, and the alphas in control of the pack.
It’s no surprise that very few injuries result from aggression or fights – even in wild animals such as wolves, coyotes, wild dogs or jackals.
These animals have a strong and powerful set of rules and hierarchies that filter down to even the bottom members of the pack. They have a strong ethos of belonging. Each animal’s position and rank in the pack receive the respect it deserves.
That is because the ‘pack’ as we call it, is not run by alphas as in a dictatorship… It’s a family unit made up of a father, mother, and offspring.
It is vital to note that leadership in this setting is rarely tyrannical but based on mutual respect.
Posture aggression (arching the back or displaying teeth) is the norm rather than any real attacks to reinforce rank. The reason for this is obvious, tyrants and overtly aggressive leaders would engender fear rather than respect, and insecurity rather than confidence.
Unless the pack works as an efficient cohesive unit, then their hunting forays would be far less successful – especially if some members of the pack are injured from inter-pack fights.
As humans, we cannot truly be alphas to our dogs – after all, we are not dogs and do not communicate the same way. But we can lay out boundaries, guidelines, and rules to follow.
We can control resources which may include food, toys, games, and even access to us. As resource controllers, we can gain mutual respect without fear, thereby creating a deeper bond with our pets.
But as in any community, pack, or family, there have to be guidelines and these must be clearly defined for them to work.
Stress plays a vital role in learning: too much of it and learning collapses, too little and learning does not occur…
Provide the correct amount of stress and learning automatically happens and we begin to witness changes. Certain aspects of stress are vital to a dog’s growth, both mentally and physically.
The example I like to give is in regard to how puppies learn.
Learning for them doesn’t begin when they reach their new home... it starts the day they are born – maybe from the womb even. The only two senses puppies have from birth to about 2 weeks old are touch and taste.
They are born blind, deaf, and unable to smell.
Their sense of smell starts working from about 10 days, hearing at 3 or 4 weeks, and reliable sight at 6 – though they can see before that, it’s almost like looking through a veil.
Gentle and careful handling by humans during this vital time from day #1 onwards creates a mild stress response in the puppy, which acts to improve them both physically and emotionally.
Therefore, this is good stress.
Puppies that are handled during the first few weeks of their life mature and grow quicker; they are more resistant to infections and diseases, and are generally more stable.
They become far better at handling day-to-day stress, are more exploratory and curious, and learn much faster than pups that are not handled during this crucial period.
That is one reason you need to be careful when choosing a puppy.
Do not purchase from puppy farmers or large breeders who do not have the time to handle the pups, and never get one from a pet shop. Look for breeders that are not commercially minded.
Those who have them indoors. And love dogs, not just for the money they can make from breeding them.
When people do not truly understand how dogs learn, then all they do is follow the latest fad and theory. Unfortunately, this is almost always to the detriment of the dogs.
We must all be aware and conscious of the fact that both puppies and adult dogs must have the full spectrum of experience – not just the positives. But to pull this off we also need consistency and understanding of what is acceptable and what is not.
… but it should not be used in isolation.
It must be coupled with consistent actions such as encouraging good behaviour but actively ensuring we don’t reward or ignore the unacceptable behaviour – they have to be dealt with using the appropriate punishment to ensure the behaviour decreases.
If good or bad behaviour is clearly defined for a dog, then it becomes far easier to understand and follow.
Your dog will be calmer, and more settled, and your relationship together will become stronger and deeper – both owner and pet will benefit.
As dog trainers and owners, we all need to play our part to ensure that the number of dogs currently being re-homed, sent into rescue, or euthanized will once again reduce.
We need to train the ‘bad’ out of our dogs instead of actively praising them, hoping they’ll change – my experience says they won't!
Whether the aggression is directed towards you, a family member, a stranger, or another animal... an aggressive dog is not only very frightening, but could inflict serious injuries or invite legal action.
While it may seem like your dog is biting you 'a little too' aggressively or displaying other aggressive behaviors out of the blue, most dogs only exhibit aggressive behavior for one of five basic reasons.
In this article, we're going to look at the 5 reasons 'good' dogs become aggressive and how you can stop it forever.
Before we dive in, I think it is wise to point out that dog aggression is rarely cured by training alone.
Dog training classes are fine for teaching obedience, but not dealing with aggressive behaviour in your dog.
Aggression is the realm of a dog behaviourist.
Make sure you employ the services of a professional dog behaviourist that is well versed and an expert in this area of behaviour. The reason is simple: you need a dog behaviourist to identify the triggers involved in what may have caused the aggression in the first place.
Dog aggression is often related to fear, pain, dominance, territorial, diet, a one-incident reaction, illness... The list of possible causes is endless.
Before setting a workable program to overcome this behavioural issue, many factors would need to be taken into account.
The first and most important thing to work out is what the potential trigger was.
For instance, did the dog behave agrressively out of fear, to show dominance, avert pain, or protecting his territory?
Could it be due to changes in the dog's hormones, guarding resources, a one-incident reaction, or is it genetic or a learned behaviour. Along with many other reasons for the behaviour
It is difficult for most humans to read the subtle signals of a dog that is likely to or intend to attack. Majority of us are not equipped to read the body language or subtle signs of canines.
Here's what I mean:
Dogs with tails that curl over the back such as Chows and Akitas or dogs with drooping ears like the Weimaraner do not give the same signals of say a Collie or an Alsatian.
Some breeds do not display the classic erect tail and ears pulled back when they're provoked.
This is also the case with hairy or Spitz type breeds.
In these circumstances, the signs may be obvious but since they're not what we know or expect... we do not notice them and, as a result, fail to avert an attack in time.
This is one of the reasons why majority of dog attacks are to family members, neighbours or people the dog owner knows.
One sad fact about dog attacks is that children are often the victims.
Majority of facial reconstructive surgery performed on young children is less a result of car or other accidents as many would believe, but predominantly from dog bites.
The choice of dog also has a marked effect on whether dog aggression or bites may occur.
The guarding breeds tend to guard, the herders tend to herd, and the retrieving dogs predominantly retrieve. Therefore if a dog was bred to guard, it shouldn't be surprising if they bite when provoked.
It is unusual for a dog to suddenly attack for no apparent reason - i.e attacking out of the blue.
Such incidents are unheard of, except where medical causes or injury are the trigger.
However, we all know or have heard of the person who say, “Oh he has never done that before” when their dog attacks another animal or nips someone's ankle.
Then the dog does it again and they uttered exactly the same words. Owners often go into denial over their dog’s bad behaviour.
A lot of dog bites and aggressive tendencies are brought on as a result of owners excusing bad behaviours of specific breeds.
This is because they perceive aggression (which usually starts small) is the normal "acceptable" behaviour for breeds such as the Terrier, the nipping Collie, or the growling miniature breed.
With this mindset, the dogs is not checked when the aggressive behaviour is first observed in small doses, leaving room for the trait to become stronger and eventually difficult to treat.
The longer you pander to aggression, the stronger the trait becomes until finally it is next to impossible to change this behaviour.
In my 35+ years of training dogs, what I have discovered is that the majority of aggressive behaviours are fear-based. Although we often categorise them as Territorial, Protective, Predatory, Sexual and Nervous/Fear Aggression.
If you think your dog's bouts of aggression is fear-based don't rush out and have it neutered. Neutering a dog without dealing with the underlying cause of aggression often heightens aggression rather than curtail it.
We have all come across advice mostly from the internet, "Oh just neuter the dog. That should fix the problem". Advice like this has caused more dogs to be euthanised than almost any other comment.
Neutering can help male dogs, especially when they keep fighting other intact male dogs.
It never helps with female dogs and, more often then not, makes aggressive tendencies considerably worse. If the aggression is directed at both male and female dogs, then it is most likely fear-based. Therefore don't be in a rush to have your aggressive dog neutered.
Ask an experience dog bahaviourist about fear-based aggression. Don't listen to the armchair experts, and most Vets who know nothing about behaviour and have a strong financial interest in neutering.
Most dog aggressive tendencies have their roots in early games and contact with humans and other dogs or pets.
That's why early socialisation with other puppies before 16 weeks of age is an absolute must. This is because puppies learn long-lasting, unconscious behaviours during the 0-16 weeks mark, making it a critical period in a dog's life.
Puppies learn to communicate with other dogs not when they've grown into adults but from pups of a similar age. To prevent or minimise the likelihood of aggressive behaviours due to poor socialisation, pups should interact with, play, and be handled from birth to 16 weeks by at least 20 different people including children.
Taking responsibility and controlling game sessions and structured dog walks should give a dog owner control over each dog and help both in the short and long term this type of unacceptable behaviour
Intact non-neutered males are more likely to exhibit dominance aggression (but only against other intact dogs) than neutered males or spayed females. It is more likely that this is controlled by androgen since females who show aggression before puberty and who are spayed become more aggressive.
The most common aggression cases I treat are fear aggression and protective aggression.
This is generally social in context and can occur between dogs within the same house. This type of aggressive dog behaviour is rarely hormone driven.
And, it doesn't always start at social maturity (12 to 24 months).
What usually happens is that one dog feels challenged by a stare, a bump, blocked path, or body block... and then each dog behaves in reaction to what the other dog did.
If this behaviour is not addressed early enough, it will escalate into an all-out war.
Dogs in this situation can end up hating each other - even though they have been the best of friends or siblings just weeks prior.
I have witness some households perform what seems like military operations in a bid to prevent two aggressive dogs from meeting each other.
When the issue has got to such stage, unless you bring in someone who understands how to work with these types of aggressive dogs (I have done hundreds of these cases)... you will have no choice but to euthanise or try and re-home one of them.
The key here is early intervention.
If two dogs start fighting just because they have seen each other, then it is generally caused by fear of which the root cause is protective aggression.
One of the characteristics of interdog aggression is that the aggressive intentions do not exist or are barely noticeable with other animals. The dog may live peacefully with cats, horses, and other animals or pets.
This can be stimulated by sudden movements. Someone in the room suddenly gets up. That action can trigger an aggressive response.
Most dogs inhibits the behaviour in the absence of its owners or the person, child or dog it feels the need to protect from harm - no owner to protect, no protective aggression.
Such dogs can be non-reactive in strange places (dog shows for instance) where there are lots of dogs or people.
In circumstances like these where they are flooded with potential threats, they cannot identify and lash out at a specific threat. And, as such, the behaviour does not occur.
Sometimes a dog will protect people or animals they think is vulnerable. These dogs do not show any aggressive behaviour until a puppy or new baby is introduced into the household.
They may be fine indoors but then become very protective outdoors from strangers or other dogs or vice versa.
This type of aggression is not specific to any sex as male and female dogs can display protective aggression - especially nursing dogs.
Protective aggression usually starts at social and mental maturity. The timing depend on the breed, but on average it occurs between 1 and 3 years of age. The larger of the breeds the older it will be before this type of behaviour occurs. Puppies rarely show this trend.
90% of hormonal aggression cases occurs in male dogs.
It first becomes obvious at social maturity (12 to 24 months), worsens with punishment, and may be hereditary. This is the type of aggression that dog breeders look out for at the 8 week puppy test.
Hormonal aggression is identifiable at 8 weeks and early intervention can to save the dog. However, not all dogs with dominant aggression can be identified at 8 weeks.
Most of us have dogs who to some extent display signs of territorial aggression: our dogs bark as people pass on the pavement, protect the car, and bark when someone's at the door.
All social animals exhibit some protective aggression .
This behaviour is increased by fences; the dog is able to continuously "patrol" and protect. The behaviour can be made worse if the dog is enclosed in say an electric fence or chained up.
It can also be made worse if "door greeting" abnormalities are tolerated: the owner greets someone at the door with the dog held back whilst straining on the collar whilst possibly barking and growling.
This is considered a concept of control, unlike aggressive possession of an object (food or object aggression) or challenge (will the dog get off the sofa or growl?).
Dominance aggression is more common with male owners who like the concept of "big, tough dogs" and so some breeds might be more likely to be diagnosed with this problem. But some of the worst dominant aggressive dogs I've dealt with have normally been Toy Poodles, Chihuahua's and Shih Tzus.
This is because their Behaviour is more likely to be seen as cute and innocent - until it's not!
There are some 15 things people do to exacerbate dominance aggression. Something as simple as staring at the dog or pushing on their rump, leaning over them, making a lead correction.
There are over 20 signs that the dog intends to become dominant aggressive.
That could be as innocent as standing on your feet, leaning against you, talking back, standing in front of you in the doorway, jumping on your lap.
These signs are often tolerated in smaller dogs. Why? Because owners think it's cute.
And I don't blame them. As humans, we are programmed to preceive the actions of smaller creatures as less threatening.
Though these smaller dogs may not do as much damage as say a Mastiff, that should not excuse from being aggressive.
Dogs with dominance aggression are categorised in behaviour as those who think they are Alpha's - able to control people and get things their own way - a bad, prognosis usually.
And then there are those dogs where all the signs were there and we allowed them to get away with it.
First, although other aggressive behaviour is not a predictor for dominance aggression... dominance aggression is about control, and the dog generally has other forms of aggression too.
Strangely enough, a common trait is that dominant dogs can also be very sensitive, they can also have fearful and anxious behaviour.
That could almost class them as schizophrenic.
Second, when the dog has escalated through several signs of dominance aggression - standing on people, sitting in laps - and it's allowed by the owner, then the dog starts thinking he's in charge... like when a teenager starts to talk back to test boundaries.
This class of dogs will alter its Behaviour to the individual.
The dog may not behave aggressively with an experienced trainer (the trainer is in charge), or when it's eating it may not bark at people passing by.
The dog can interrupt and inhibit the aggressive behaviour, but chooses its time when not to react. This actually is the easiest dog to work with since the dog is capable of taking cues from context and behaving appropriately.
However it would be extremely difficult to determine the exact genetics for this behaviour, since development of the behaviour depends not only on the genes but also the dog/owner situation.
If the dog was genetically predisposed but owned by a good trainer and discouraged at an early age from barking at say the door, it may not exhibit the trait ever again
On the other hand, a dog who may genetically be less predisposed but encouraged to exhibit the behaviour, it then can become a major problem.
Taking a reactive dog for a walk is one hell of a job.
The second a reactive dog sees another dog or strange-looking object... he’ll start barking, growling, lunging, and pulling in the direction of whatever caught his attention.
For most dog owners with this problem, their dog grows so reactive they prefer walking the dog at odd hours or not take it for a walk at all.
If a reactive dog is not taught how to calm down, their reactive behavior is sure to escalate.
It can get to the stage where owner and dog just sit at home in the hope that another dog doesn’t walk past the window.
Or worse...
The dog’s reactivity becomes so out of control, the only solution is parting ways with an otherwise-lovable four-legged friend.
If this sounds like the unavoidable nightmare you and your dog are heading for, you are not alone.
Thousands of dogs get abandoned to rescues every year or even put down due to aggressive behaviour. More often than not, the truth is your dog is not aggressive - He's simply afraid.
The good news is, there is a cure for fearful dogs.
Whether it's fear of other dogs or fear of humans, this is a resolvable issue.
With appropriate training and behavior modification, you and your furry friend can enjoy the freedom of a pleasant walk together.
But...
Before we can begin to resolve the issue, it's important to understand why your dog is reactive.
Firstly, let's rule out illness and chronic pain. Some dogs -- much like humans -- can suffer from a disease, aching joints and arthritis, especially as they get older. If you have an older canine who has recently become reactive to other dogs, a trip to see the vet might in order.
Arthritis and joint pain in older dogs is usually manageable. With the right treatment, you might find that your dog’s behaviour returns to normal on its own.
Once you’ve ruled out any medical concerns, there are endless reasons why your dog is a reactive dog. The typical case, however, is that your dog feels threatened. By snarling and barking at the thing he finds scary, he is trying to tell the thing (canine or human) to back off and not come any closer.
If your dog is displaying signs of fear by reacting to other dogs, or even other humans, the worst thing you can do is dole out punishments. Aim to support your dog by preventing him from practising reactive behaviour.
For example, plan to exercise your dog in less crowded places or at less busy times of the day. If the sight of another dog is a stress trigger, then turn and walk away. Your dog will not be afraid if it can't see what he's scared of.
Dogs can sense when you’re stressed and anxious.
Most people with a reactive dog will immediately tense the lead and pull the dog towards them at the mere sight of their dog's trigger. By shortening your dog’s lead or pulling him towards you before he's even had a chance to react, will reaffirm his fears.
If you have concerns about not being able to control your dog on a regular lead, then it might be worth investing in a no-pull harness.
When walking your dog, you have to remember that your dog will respond to your energy and demeanor. If you are tense and gripping the lead tightly, this can cause your dog to become agitated and anxious.
Additionally, raising your voice can also escalate ANY situation and make things worse.
Instead, approach the walk with a calm and relaxed attitude. This will make the experience more enjoyable for both you and your dog. You can achieve this by training your dog to walk calmly on leash before taking him to crowded or unfamiliar places.
While on a walk, be mindful of your dog's body language and adjust your own behavior accordingly. If your dog seems anxious or nervous, it can help to slow down your pace and give him some time to sniff and explore his environment.
Overall, walking your dog should be an enjoyable and positive experience for both of you, and by keeping a calm and relaxed attitude, using positive reinforcement and understanding your dog's specific needs will lead to a more enjoyable walk for all.
When you notice your dog getting reactive on a walk, try to redirect his attention to something positive - like a toy or treat.
This way, he has something else to think about besides the thing that scares him. Play mini training games of touch or watch, with regular treats and praise for good behaviour.
Situations like this is where positive reinforcement training comes in handy, especially when teaching your dog to walk calmly on a leash.
3. Change your route.
Keep things interesting for him (and for you!). This is crucial as it ensures that his daily walks remain engaging and stimulating.
One way to do this with a reactive dog is by providing new and varied experiences: if you two have been walking the same path for an extended period, it's likely that your reactive dog (and yourself) have become bored with the routine.
In order to maintain your dog's interest and engagement, it is essential to introduce new sights and smells.
One way to change things up is to explore new neighborhoods or parks, where your dog can discover new sights, smells, and even other dogs to interact with. This not only keeps your dog mentally and physically stimulated, but it also provides you with a new and exciting walking route - I mean, you also want to enjoy walking your dog, right?
Additionally, you could also bring different toys and change the route of your walk during different days, so it'll take him by surprise - which will be interesting for you.
Overall, keeping things interesting for your dog is essential to ensuring that their daily walks remain engaging and stimulating. By introducing new sights, smells, and experiences, you can keep your dog mentally and physically stimulated and make your walks more enjoyable for both you and your dog.
Another way to keep things interesting for your dog is to incorporate training or obedience exercises into your walks. This can include basic commands like sit, stay, come, or heel, or more advanced tricks like rolling over or playing fetch.
By adding an element of training to your walks, you will keep your dog mentally engaged and provide him with a sense of accomplishment.
You can also try walking your dog at different time of the day. This can change the sensation and the ambiance of the place, and also change the way your dog interacts with the environment, making the experience different and unique.
5. Be A Fun Person To Be Around!
Change your pace; speed up and slow down. Walk in circles, weave around lamp posts and trees. Your dog won’t be so worried if his human is fun to be around.
By making the walk more interesting, your dog will enjoy spending time with you.
Sometimes it's best to avoid putting your dog in a stressful situation.
While walking your dog, stay alert! Try to recognize when a situation may be too much for your pet to handle. If you come across an aggressive or overly stimulating dog while out for a walk, it may be best to avoid the encounter for your pet's well-being.
Being proactive and removing your pet from the situation can prevent any potential stress or harm. Your pet may not be able to express gratitude, but they will appreciate your consideration.
Every dog is different and may have unique needs.
Some dogs may require more exercise or a different type of training. Therefore, it is essential to get to know your dog and understand their individual needs to ensure that you are providing the best possible experience for them.
Having said that, owning a reactive dog is frustrating and socially isolating. It can make you feel like a pariah in your own neighbourhood.
As an experienced and qualified dog behaviourist, I can help you to resolve common problems such as reactive behaviour in as little as two comprehensive training sessions. You can start to improve your relationship with your dog today.
Phone: +66 921 808 551
Email: enquiries@regentskennels.com
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